DUBAI: Chef John Mark has worked at a number of prestigious establishments over the years, in the Maldives, Mauritius, the UAE, and India, among others. Now, he’s the chef de cuisine at Japanese restaurant Gishiki 45 in The St. Regis Red Sea Resort.
Here, Mark discusses embracing mistakes, his favorite dish to make, and the importance of a healthy working environment.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
I love the smell of garlic and the smell of onion. These two ingredients are very important in Asian cuisine; they give the dishes a nice aroma and flavor, and can enhance any dish.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I’m not one to criticize any chef or restaurant unless there are mistakes in the dish that I ordered. I respect chefs. I respect people who are working in the hospitality. And if I do need to say something, I make sure to say it in the right manner.
What’s the most common mistake that you find in other restaurants?
That the service team and the kitchen are at war. This is the chef’s responsibility. We need to make sure that the service team and the kitchen are one. It’s so important, because, as chefs, we cook, but the service team deal with the guests. The only thing that we want is to make the guests happy. So we need to be a team.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
Thai food. I love coconut flavors and Thai food has coconut in almost all the dishes. The flavors and the smell are rich. It makes me happy.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
My daughter loves to eat. I let my family try different cuisines, but she really loves pasta. So, I cook pasta for my daughter — and for my wife of course. We also have a famous dish in the Philippines called chicken adobo, and when I am home I like to cook that for my family.
What customer request most annoys you?
You cannot be annoyed at your guests as a chef. You need to be flexible. We are here, in this world, to learn, and this is a huge opportunity. I can’t just focus on one thing like a horse; I have to keep an open mind. Why not try what they ask for, if this is what they want?
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
It’s something we’re famous for in the Philippines. It’s very authentic, you only really see it in the villages. It’s called beggar’s chicken. It’s so delicate. It’s a long process. You need to marinate the chicken and stuff it, then you wrap it in banana leaf. Then, you put mud on it. You cook it in the mud. So, when its cooked, you need to break the mud and open it. It smells amazing.
As a head chef, what are you like?
When I started as a chef, there was a lot of tension and a lot of shouting, but I don’t think this is a good environment. I don’t want it to be quiet in my kitchen, but I don’t want tension. Of course, I can be a little strict, but I don’t want anyone to shout at my staff. I have to talk to them nicely. Shouting is not on my menu.
Chef Mark’s Salmon Batayaki recipe
INGREDIENTS:
160g salmon; 1 oyster mushroom
For the dashi water:
Mix 100ml water; 5g konbu; 2g katsuobushi
For the batayaki sauce:
Mix 2 spoons soy sauce; 20g butter; 50ml dashi water; 1 spoon yuzu juice
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Season the salmon with salt and pepper and dust with corn flour.
2. Heat fryer to 180 celsius and fry the salmon for 2 minutes.
3. Prepare a heated non-stick pan. Heat your batayaki sauce.
4. Put your salmon and mushroom in the batayaki sauce and simmer until the sauce becomes shiny and has a buttery texture.
5. Garnish with crispy leek and serve.
